For the five families that control NYC’s Christmas tree trade, the most wonderful time of the year starts months before the first fir tree displays hit busy sidewalks in the five boroughs. There is the competition for sources and locations—not to mention strategizing to stretch the proceeds of five scant weeks into a living for the rest of the year. Celia Aniskovich’s delightful peek behind the curtain of a holiday tradition captures a truly singular cast of characters, among them NYC’s seasonal stand workers, who add extra spice to every sale.